
Morning came early, and sleep was difficult. And what I found day 2 in Dayton was that people in this area do not have the same coffee jones that we do. And the coffee I did find (after driving at least 10-15 miles one way) told me that Java Estate has a nice corner on the market, and that The Grind has some damn good coffee.
Anyway, for the second day in a row, I drove much longer than I should have to get a simple cup of coffee. Today I drove to Lincoln, which consisted of a flashing light and a small country store, and bought four cups of coffee. A group of old guys, sitting around giving each other shit (seemed familiar), drank coffee and eyed me suspiciously. Perhaps it was the California plates on my rental car. Nonetheless, I bought the watery liquid and headed back to Dayton.
After quaffing the less-than-satisfying coffee, and showering and packing, we were on the road again. And, as has become the habit, we were drinking pinot noir before 11 am, on our way to McMinnville. Domaine Drouhin’s finest was our pre-meal snack. We had breakfast, as we needed something absorbent, then we were on our own, and headed for Carlton.
We began our wine drinking day (outside the vehicle) at The Tasting Room in Carlton, where we drank about six different Pinots. Oh, there may have been a white wine or two, but who cares? We came to drink Pinot, and that’s what we did.
But the day was not over.
After the tasting, we walked across the street to Tyres Evan, and tasted some wines from one of Ken Wright’s products (who Kristin represents). Actually, the reds were claret blends and two syrahs. Not bad, but not pinots. They were from southern Washington, and southern Oregon, grown in two different soil types.
“The difference in the soil is the difference in the wine,” our tasting room manager noted, with thick volcanic/clay soil draining more slowly causing the grapes to ripen later.
Kristin and Garrett met us at this tasting room, and we prepared for the drive to the last vinery we would visit before we headed to Portland, and the east coast, leaving the valley behind. The appearance of our wine rep caused our tasting to go from $10 per person to free. But we had a more important stop to make, so we cut it short and headed out.
I tried my best to follow Garrett, but he drove like he walked, and we all know how that ended up. So I backed off to leave plenty of distance between our Jeep and his convertible Mustang. Nonetheless, we soon found ourselves at Chehalem, and made the tasting room considerably louder than it was when we walked in. The couple who had been peacefully enjoying their sipping actually knew us from dinner at Nick’s, so our volume did not put them off.
Our taster, though, did make the somewhat sacrilegious comment, “It’s not only about Pinot Noir.”
I gasped, and then I tasted the whites she offered, including Pinot Gris, a Chard and a Riesling. All were actually quite good. But I came across country for one grape, and I would not be disappointed by Chehalem’s red offerings. The winemaker – who actually hails from Brunswick County – came out and talked to us about his wine, tasting us on a few things that the average visitor doesn’t get to try.
Harry was very humble, and talked about his wine, the valley and the fruit. As it rained outside, he expressed the same concerns we had heard from other winemakers as the weather approached. Rain stabilizes density in the fruit, he said, but too much rain can cause catastrophe. He also said that the more skin the liquid was exposed to, the more structure and intensity would result in the finished product. He also added that there was a lot of collaboration among valley farmers/winemakers, noting “a high tide floats all ships.”
Oh, and he made some damn good wine. We drank four Pinots, including the RR, a barrel selection wine that he personally selects for its masculine qualities. This would not be the last time we would drink this wine today, and Joel picked up a bottle of the RR, along with a bottle of the reserve Pinot Noir.
Chehalem was a great way to wind up the journey to the valley of the wine. Harry was a winemaking nerd, which is actually a very cool thing in the valley. Wine as art, wine as science, wine as something to be savored and discussed – at length. We certainly had the “savor at length” part down pat.
After drinking everything he had to offer, we headed out of the valley to the City of Roses. Unfortunately, we arrived in Portland at the height of rush hour. The GPS managed to get us to our hotel, so it was only mildly annoying. Plus, we still had wine.
Kristin and her husband were staying across town, and hunkered down for the night. I think our pace caused them some concern. Anyway, we drank a bottle of Stoller that we had picked up at that winery, and then walked across the street to The Heathman. The menu was very interesting, and the things they do with mushrooms in this part of the country are amazing. We drank another Pinot, but were reluctant to purchase any more, as we had bottles in the room (and had spent way more than I would care to admit on wine in this past week). We asked about their corkage fee, and the waitress said $20, but since we had already purchased a bottle, she would waive it. So I scampered across the street to the hotel, and grabbed Chehalem’s RR. It was delicious with the lamb I had for dinner, as well as the Pot de crème I ate for dessert.
Back in the room, I poured myself one more glass from the bottom of the Stoller bottle, and sat down at the computer to write this. But that wasn’t going to happen. My frontal lobe was like a Pinot sponge, and there were no printable thoughts that were going to flow between it and the keyboard. So I turned out the light, and lay down on the bed to watch Sportscenter. It was not long before slumber (or unconsciousness, take your pick) took me.
But it was an uneasy sleep. Given the abrupt start to our journey, I was concerned about oversleeping. I put in a wake-up call for 5:30, and Susan had set the alarm on her phone for 5:00. Regardless, I woke up at 3 a.m., and never could get back to sleep. I finally said to hell with it, and got out of bed to get ready.
On our way to the airport, we learned that Kristin’s car had been broken into, and a suitcase stolen. Convertible roof slashed, windows broken…the works. There may have even been some Tall Poppy in the suitcase, which would be tragic if it fell into the hands of a couple meth-heads (although it might prevent Garrett from injuring himself further).
That put a sad finish to an otherwise great experience. She had hooked us up with some awesome wineries, and we had received star treatment. Especially considering we are a small volume wine shop, on the other side of the country, with proprietors very new to the game.
We learned quite a bit about Pinot Noir, and, surprisingly, considering the tremendous amount we consumed, we still remember a fair amount of what we were told (but that could be good note-taking).
By Saturday, the Pinots had not only caught up with our palates, but our budget as well. I have no idea at this point how many bottles we actually bought, but it was – at the very least – 30. Plus, we drank another 10-15 on someone else’s dime. And that does not include all the wine we tasted. But after about three hours on the plane, Shell finally looked up and said, “We need some wine!” So I guess we didn’t get enough.
As we left ILM to head back to The Grind, Joel opened up the Chehalem Reserve Pinot, and we toasted to a “good field trip.” We were welcomed back as heroes, Axel and Billy were happy to see us, Dave was playing his piano, Eric and Dawn were here with their famous friends, and for a moment it seemed as if we had never left.
But I had a purple smile, and a profound interest in winemaking, plus a definite desire to do it again.
Next time, Tuscany. We better start saving money now…